The autonomy of eponymy

As a fashion publicist I grew tired of writing, "her eponymous label" or "his eponymous line" as more and more designers took to naming their brands after themselves. Indeed, at this year's Australian Fashion Week only six labels of the 40 holding individual shows are not related to the designer's name. It's not a new trend, (in fact eponymy dates back to the ancient Greeks, who would attribute rulers and politicians to their presiding era) and is certainly not confined to fashion. From Peter, Paul and Mary to Peter, Bjorn and John, musicians have long been self-titling, and if it's not the band name it's the album (Wilco's latest is called "Wilco the Album").

It's most dangerous in fashion though, where the designer is clearly saying this label is the embodiment of me. On the upside these 'owner-occupied' businesses allow creative freedom and a certain autonomy. But, whether they like it or not, designers become 24 hour brand ambassadors, and are often seen more as public identities than working designers. In most cases they self promote pretty well, (I've never seen anyone wear sass+bide as well as the girls do. Likewise Kirrily Johnston and Marnie Skillings), but it must put great pressure on the designers. It does get a tad boring though, especially when designers continue to reinvent themselves under the same eponymous label. For a more origninal, and slightly irreverent take, perhaps it should be Wayne Cooper 1, Wayne Cooper 2, and so on...

A luddite no more

Image courtesy of Amanda Woodward

As I feverishly await the return of my husband (he's been overseas for five weeks) I am reminded at what I have achieved in his absence. In between caring for my seven month old baby, general housekeeping and walking the dog, I've turned to technology for company. I've registered on facebook; legally and illegally downloaded music; updated my itunes; linked my two electronic calendars (in fact synchronised my entire iphone with my laptop); downloaded images from my camera, onto said laptop; and started this very blog. Needless to say, I am technologically spent. Perhaps it's my current exclusion from the workforce that has me craving communication. Perhaps it's me proving I can cope without my partner (who has always controlled the uploads). Either way it's been rather liberating. Let's hope the federal government's national broadband proposal gets the green light, as if I can feel excommunicated in the inner city, god knows how the country folk are feeling...

News Holland Photography - Carol Jerrems

"Vale St". Image courtesy of National Gallery of Australia

The first time I heard of Carol Jerrems was some years ago when I stumbled across a late night documentary on SBS. I felt an instant resonance with her work, a youthful reflection of life in 70s Australia, a time characterised by social change and a generational revolution. Jerrems used her work to document the turbulence and quickly developed her signature style. This included group shots of friends and lovers in raw and realistic settings. Urban indigenous groups and strong women feature heavily in her works, as well as other sub cultures such as sharpie gangs (which I've recently learned were an anti hippy and mods cult movement), proving she didn't let her own ideologies dictate her work. Sadly, Jerrems died before her 31st birthday of a rare cancer. All her works were bequeathed to the National Gallery of Australia.

Oxford St Anzacs

Walking through Taylor Square early on Sunday morning can be an eye-opening experience. With my baby and dog in tow, it's not the most pleasant of morning walks. Drunks are still drinking, loonies still shouting and clubbers still clubbing. Still I'll take Darlinghurst over suburbia any day. Sometimes maternal junkies yell at me for not putting socks on my baby. I want to yell back, something about the stupidity of taking drugs but I never do. The Oxford St brigade are celebrating ANZAC Day the only way they know how - popping something and dancing the night away. Bless em.

Fashion Week's Fabulous Nobodies

RAFW 2009

And once again, fashion week is upon us. Designers are using the global financial crisis to excuse their absence from this year's extravaganza, to be held in Sydney next week. It's really not due to fewer dress sales but rather the hemorrhaging of prospective sponsors. C'mon, you didn't honestly think designers paid for their own shows? The biggest hole in the schedule is left by Akira, although most of last year's hero shows are missing. Michelle Jank, Easton Pearson, Mad Cortes. Must-see shows this year will be Kirrily Johnston, Zambesi, Fernando Frisoni and Willow but the schedule is largely a mix of fabulous nobodies who will need to do something remarkable to attract the media attention they so desire. Still, we welcome new talent. Indeed we crave it. It will be interesting to see if new kid Dion Lee will live up to the hype for his first solo show. Also of interest will be Magdalena Velevska, one time designer and PR gal for Nicola Finetti. For the mainstream there will be the obligatory Lisa Ho, Wayne Cooper and Zimmerman shows. The more creatively-minded might be left wanting more...

Marc's getting hitched

Once upon a time when I had an office job, someone defaced my Marc Jacobs poster writing 'tool'. It was distressing and I'm still trying to get to the bottom of it. On hearing the news (and this time I believe it) that he is set to be married I felt a little twinge of jealousy. Sure he is a gay man and I am a happily married woman, but that doesn't mean it can't hurt. He's all a woman wants; handsome, erstwhile Parisian, reformed reformer, snappy dresser and he sure knows his way around a cutting floor. But what do we know of this "Lorenzo Martone" character? He seemingly came from nowhere to snag fashion's most coveted prize. Hmmm, I'm suspicious. Yes he redeemed himself when I heard he bought the engagement rings at Boucheron but is he good enough for Marc? Only time will tell...

For Boucheron's latest collections (and prices) visit their website. www.boucheron.com If you've run out of Euros try local artisans Fairfax & Roberts. www.fairfaxandroberts.com.au Interestingly both houses turned 150 last year...