The autonomy of eponymy

As a fashion publicist I grew tired of writing, "her eponymous label" or "his eponymous line" as more and more designers took to naming their brands after themselves. Indeed, at this year's Australian Fashion Week only six labels of the 40 holding individual shows are not related to the designer's name. It's not a new trend, (in fact eponymy dates back to the ancient Greeks, who would attribute rulers and politicians to their presiding era) and is certainly not confined to fashion. From Peter, Paul and Mary to Peter, Bjorn and John, musicians have long been self-titling, and if it's not the band name it's the album (Wilco's latest is called "Wilco the Album").

It's most dangerous in fashion though, where the designer is clearly saying this label is the embodiment of me. On the upside these 'owner-occupied' businesses allow creative freedom and a certain autonomy. But, whether they like it or not, designers become 24 hour brand ambassadors, and are often seen more as public identities than working designers. In most cases they self promote pretty well, (I've never seen anyone wear sass+bide as well as the girls do. Likewise Kirrily Johnston and Marnie Skillings), but it must put great pressure on the designers. It does get a tad boring though, especially when designers continue to reinvent themselves under the same eponymous label. For a more origninal, and slightly irreverent take, perhaps it should be Wayne Cooper 1, Wayne Cooper 2, and so on...

Fashion Week's Fabulous Nobodies

RAFW 2009

And once again, fashion week is upon us. Designers are using the global financial crisis to excuse their absence from this year's extravaganza, to be held in Sydney next week. It's really not due to fewer dress sales but rather the hemorrhaging of prospective sponsors. C'mon, you didn't honestly think designers paid for their own shows? The biggest hole in the schedule is left by Akira, although most of last year's hero shows are missing. Michelle Jank, Easton Pearson, Mad Cortes. Must-see shows this year will be Kirrily Johnston, Zambesi, Fernando Frisoni and Willow but the schedule is largely a mix of fabulous nobodies who will need to do something remarkable to attract the media attention they so desire. Still, we welcome new talent. Indeed we crave it. It will be interesting to see if new kid Dion Lee will live up to the hype for his first solo show. Also of interest will be Magdalena Velevska, one time designer and PR gal for Nicola Finetti. For the mainstream there will be the obligatory Lisa Ho, Wayne Cooper and Zimmerman shows. The more creatively-minded might be left wanting more...

Marc's getting hitched

Once upon a time when I had an office job, someone defaced my Marc Jacobs poster writing 'tool'. It was distressing and I'm still trying to get to the bottom of it. On hearing the news (and this time I believe it) that he is set to be married I felt a little twinge of jealousy. Sure he is a gay man and I am a happily married woman, but that doesn't mean it can't hurt. He's all a woman wants; handsome, erstwhile Parisian, reformed reformer, snappy dresser and he sure knows his way around a cutting floor. But what do we know of this "Lorenzo Martone" character? He seemingly came from nowhere to snag fashion's most coveted prize. Hmmm, I'm suspicious. Yes he redeemed himself when I heard he bought the engagement rings at Boucheron but is he good enough for Marc? Only time will tell...

For Boucheron's latest collections (and prices) visit their website. www.boucheron.com If you've run out of Euros try local artisans Fairfax & Roberts. www.fairfaxandroberts.com.au Interestingly both houses turned 150 last year...